On my way back from giving a quick city tour to a few new volunteers and additions to our house I noticed one of the most surreal things I have ever seen in my life. A miniature death ring that appeared to either be for Midgets or roosters. Curious as ever, I crept over to the open door and found a lady next to the inside of the door. I asked her "Cockfights? and her response was "Yes cerveza and cock fights 15 soles." For 5 bucks I could watch cockfights and have beer? Shell shocked, mesmerized, and horrified I skipped to our house which was right across the street to inform the boys we were off to see cock fights. 45 minutes later we showed up and were the first people there (We would be the only white people there all night.) Grabbing prime seats in the front row we gazed at the cocks. We felt bad for the ones in the cages yet sized them up for competition as well. I hate to admit it but any moral stance I had against cock fighting went straight out the window when the crowd increased to between 75-100 people. It was brilliant. There were two dozen kids, men who had servants pouring their beers for them, people standing before the first fight wagering 100 soles per fight. That place could have got Mike Vick to retire from football and pursue a new career. There was more energy in that building than any NBA, MLB, or NFL playoff game I have ever been too. The fat cats dropping 100 soles per bet (and sometimes they would have 2-3 bets per fight) also included a mere 5 sole win over my friend Matt. The place was dazzling; farmers after a hard weeks work, children neglecting their homework, woman cheering as if they were watching their kid at a little league game, man this place had it all. There was a "welcome to cock fighting moment" round one where I was coerced into a 10 sole bet. Right before the cocks fought they would be put face to face and they would stand each others ground as if they were being told 'okay you have to fight' then a 2-3 inch silver blade that could have sliced my body off from my man parts was tied to each of the cocks left legs (I'm not sure if they had any idea a blade was there, I mean they couldn't see it, they are one of the dumbest types of animals in the world, and aw hell I'm speculating.) Anyways back to round one; The cocks stabbed each other simultaneously one getting it in the gut the other the side of the head, one shit itself and they collapsed next to each other. In awe of the situation and horrified at the same time I jumped to my feet screaming "Yes!" (I am sorry okay). Overcome with a shallow and perhaps disgusting interest in this horrifying yet addicting sport I high-fived about five strangers, grabbed my beer and waited for the next fight. The characters at the event were impeccable. The PA announcer got yelled at it relentlessly for taking too much time in between fights, the trainers we're intensely serious and acted like they had been doing it for years, the judge was a strict old man who maneuvered and maintained the situation as if it were meant to be serious (If I ever see a resume that says cock fight referee on it I will hire him instantly.) We starting giving nicknames to not just the roosters but the trainers. One trainer was el nino for being just 14 years old. One cock was 'El Blanco Mortar' aka 'The White Death' because, well, he was white and was either going to die or kill someone. Some of these cocks looked like turkeys who had just lost a loved one (massive, pissed and the angriest looking mother ******* I have ever seen.) This place would never be allowed to exist in America, but I hope they have one in hell! The fight of the night can be seen in this video below (Yes I took the video, don't judge me, don't watch it if you don't want to see it, or say that it isn't the most bad ass video you have ever seen, enjoy!)It reminded me of a craps table mixed with ultimate death match.
Look, I understand the moral argument against this but different cultures have different customs, traditions, and interests to some its inhumane to others it's innocent entertainment. Of course it is illegal in America, but murdering 100,000 Iraqi's in a dozen years is, so what's worse? Either way I found the cock fighting matches an incredibly fascinating part of Peruvian culture.
Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9FuDFcNQbk
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